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Hild, Sekt NV

Hild, Sekt NV


Mosel, Germany


Elbing. The Mosel is mostly known for slate and Riesling but the upper Mosel is all about limestone and Europe’s oldest grape, Elbing. It was widely-planted in the Upper Mosel but it has been devalued due to a lack of quality seen in its usage for bulk wines from co-ops. As Hild’s negociant, Von Bodem, puts it, “Even at its best, Elbling is not a grape of ‘greatness’ as much as it is a grape of refreshment and honesty and conviviality.” Which fits the culture of the region just fine. The chalkiness of the soil comes through in this Méthode Champenoise, aged in stainless steel, spending nine months on the lees. Bright acidity and ripe, juicy pineapple make for a charming and refreshing bubbly. There is also ample acidity as Elbing can make wine with crazy acidity. Matthias Hild’s quest to save the terraced parcels of Elbling from which this wine comes is also crazy. Working these low yield vineyards, organically, by hand doesn’t make financial sense but this is more an act of cultural preservation than a business venture. Von Bodem describes the wine as, “sacred voices of a time long past.”